Milan – a city where so often the powerhouse heritage brands dominate column inches. For Spring 2015, it was refreshing to see young designers like Stella Jean, Marco de Vincenzo and Angelos Bratis garner attention as well as Giamba, the new and more youthful line from Giambattista Valli. It was not just the names which felt fresh – designers in the Italian capital so often delve into their heritage reference books and national iconography, and while some did, notably Dolce & Gabbana’s Sicilian affair, designers this season didn’t feel a need to parade the exquisite wears with so much flamboyance. Amidst Italy’s financial strife, it made Milan’s offering wearable, and covetable, on a global scale.
While many shows paraded a neutral colour palette, the offering was far from dull – instead designers focused on fluid lines, and texture. There were nude tones in the innocent bohemian at Alberta Ferretti, a focus on lightness at Emporio Armani, all white outfits at Francesco Scognamiglio and layered cream, stone and mushroom at Marni.
Colour was present elsewhere of course, in the striking oranges and tangerines at Emilio Pucci, Gucci and Fausto Puglisi and the limoncello hues at Philipp Plein, Moschino and Missoni. Pinks too were popular; bubblegum at Angelos Bratis, Mattel licensed at Moschino, dusky hued at Giamba and pastel head to toe pink at Versace. Alarming red, often popular in Milan, was present for SS15 too, most traffic-stopping at Iceberg, Pucci and Les Copains. For the less bold, thankfully the popular blue palette seen in New York and London exists here too. A shiny navy worked well paired with red at Antonio Marras, there were soft pastels and cornflowers at Ermanno Scervino and a riot of Yves Klein at Emporio Armani.