Travel writer Michael Webb relishes the gentrification of one of London’s seedier boroughs and finds it quite delicious.

A few Rip Van Winkles still marvel that you can eat very well in London, unaware that the revolution has been in full swing for the past forty years. And you can now find exemplary restaurants in poor neighbourhoods that once offered little besides jellied eels or greasy fish and chips. Historic boroughs to the east of the City have been gentrified to the point that their original inhabitants wouldn’t recognise them.

Warehouses and residential terraces, devastated by the Blitz and still more by slum clearance programmes, have been restored or rebuilt. The new locals are artists, architects and advertising personnel, drawn by relatively low rents, proximity to the centre, and a pervasive sense of history that feels more visceral than in the manicured western districts.

Chefs have responded to the demand, delivering creative cuisine in unpretentious or idiosyncratic settings. In general, the prices are far below what you would pay in the West End. Wapping Food is a feast for the eyes and the palette.

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BOE Magazine